Gel Medium Transfer
#1
Posted 21 July 2012 - 09:00 AM
Have fun!!
#2
Posted 21 July 2012 - 09:21 AM

#3
Posted 21 July 2012 - 09:51 AM




#5
Posted 21 July 2012 - 04:48 PM

#6
Posted 21 July 2012 - 06:02 PM


#7
Posted 21 July 2012 - 08:42 PM



#8
Posted 21 July 2012 - 09:43 PM
tinkerbell11, on 21 July 2012 - 08:42 PM, said:
I think the key is to really let it dry ... like I said, 10 hours or overnight. I had no image issues. The hardest part for me was smoothing out all of the bubbles and wrinkles. Just when I thought I had it set I would see another spot ... I finally had to make myself leave it alone!
#9
Posted 22 July 2012 - 06:57 AM


#10
Posted 22 July 2012 - 07:09 AM
I always get confused as to which is laser and which is ink jet printing? I mean my at-home printer as opposed to when I bring something to Staples? How do I know which is which?
Thanks!

#11
Posted 22 July 2012 - 09:39 AM
MariJ, on 22 July 2012 - 07:09 AM, said:
I always get confused as to which is laser and which is ink jet printing? I mean my at-home printer as opposed to when I bring something to Staples? How do I know which is which?
Thanks!
I'm not sure what you have at home, Marilyn. The only thing I can tell you is that a laser printer uses a powder called toner which is a sort of powdered ink and the printer uses heat to fuse the toner to the paper. This is the same process used in large office machines (like Staples).
An ink jet uses liquid ink that is fired through a print head in tiny droplets on the paper. When you are working on a craft project that requires adding a water base medium (glimmer mist, medium transfer gel, mod podge are some examples) your ink gets wet and can run and smear.
Having said that, I have an ink jet printer at home and I have used it for printing layouts for craft projects. What I then do is spray a light coat of acrylic sealer before moving on to a water-base technique. Since I was unfamilar how the gel medium transfer would work I took this into work to print on a toner-base printer. The gel medium basically sucks up the color off the paper and I thought that if I used a spray sealer it would put a barrier to that color.
Hope this helps!
#12
Posted 22 July 2012 - 12:58 PM
#13
Posted 23 July 2012 - 07:26 AM

"I do not understand the mystery of grace -- only that it meets us where we are and does not leave us where it found us." Anne Lamott. My blog (Unfinished Work)
#14
Posted 23 July 2012 - 10:53 AM
Bride, on 21 July 2012 - 09:43 PM, said:
tinkerbell11, on 21 July 2012 - 08:42 PM, said:
I think the key is to really let it dry ... like I said, 10 hours or overnight. I had no image issues. The hardest part for me was smoothing out all of the bubbles and wrinkles. Just when I thought I had it set I would see another spot ... I finally had to make myself leave it alone!
Maybe I will give it another try ! I still have some canvases I bought a bunch on sale at Micheals!



#15
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:11 PM
Bride, on 22 July 2012 - 09:39 AM, said:
MariJ, on 22 July 2012 - 07:09 AM, said:
I always get confused as to which is laser and which is ink jet printing? I mean my at-home printer as opposed to when I bring something to Staples? How do I know which is which?
Thanks!
I'm not sure what you have at home, Marilyn. The only thing I can tell you is that a laser printer uses a powder called toner which is a sort of powdered ink and the printer uses heat to fuse the toner to the paper. This is the same process used in large office machines (like Staples).
An ink jet uses liquid ink that is fired through a print head in tiny droplets on the paper. When you are working on a craft project that requires adding a water base medium (glimmer mist, medium transfer gel, mod podge are some examples) your ink gets wet and can run and smear.
Having said that, I have an ink jet printer at home and I have used it for printing layouts for craft projects. What I then do is spray a light coat of acrylic sealer before moving on to a water-base technique. Since I was unfamilar how the gel medium transfer would work I took this into work to print on a toner-base printer. The gel medium basically sucks up the color off the paper and I thought that if I used a spray sealer it would put a barrier to that color.
Hope this helps!
Yes, thank you Lei it helps very much and answers my question. Great explanation - I appreciate it!

#17
Posted 24 July 2012 - 10:10 AM
This may also be done by printing onto a transparency- you know, the old school kind that teachers used on overhead projectors before Smart Boards came along? This allows you to see placement easily. Images with clear definition work best. The inked side goes in contact with the gel medium. Of course you want to print it in reverse if you have text or care about a specific angle.
Another cool transfer method is to carefully tape an A4 sized sheet of iron on fusible webbing- the kind you use for sewing. Be sure the fusible side is touching the paper and you print on the non fusible side. This makes a really cool texture which is especially beautiful for landscapes, panoramic images and artistic effects.
#18
Posted 24 July 2012 - 10:38 AM
Amanda OutsideTheBox, on 24 July 2012 - 10:10 AM, said:
This may also be done by printing onto a transparency- you know, the old school kind that teachers used on overhead projectors before Smart Boards came along? This allows you to see placement easily. Images with clear definition work best. The inked side goes in contact with the gel medium. Of course you want to print it in reverse if you have text or care about a specific angle.
Another cool transfer method is to carefully tape an A4 sized sheet of iron on fusible webbing- the kind you use for sewing. Be sure the fusible side is touching the paper and you print on the non fusible side. This makes a really cool texture which is especially beautiful for landscapes, panoramic images and artistic effects.
Yes, Amanda - I did know about transparencies but the fusible webbing is a great idea!! Thanks for sharing that. Wouldn't that be a great method for card making?? Will have to try that!

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